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Rota Vicentina - Portugal

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When we just had our new mountainbikes, we were of course very eager to try them out.  From our first bike ride 10 years before, we remembered that the temperature in the south of Portugal used to be perfect during November.

As this was our first "bike packing"adventure, we were looking for an offroad track which was categorised "moderate". 

The Rota Vicentina goes from Santiago do Cacém to Sagres and is about 220 km long. The MTB track from Lisbon to Santiago is about 180 km and the Eurovelo 1 (Ecovia 1) from Sagres to Faro is about 170km. This last part is mostly on normal roads.

From Faro, you can take a train back to Lisbon.

The Rota Vicentina has 2 paths. The Historical Way is for hikers and mountainbikers, the Fishermans Way along the coastline is for hikers only.

While we had our camping stuff with us, we only used it one night as the accommodation along the way was so cheap that we could not resist the convenience.

Video on DILISTUFF YouTube channel 

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Lisbon to Setubal

From the airport, it's about 15 km cycling along the Rio Tejo to the centre of Lissabon where we booked a room for 1 night before we start on our trip. We have arranged with a Warmshowers host, not too far from the airport, to keep our boxes in storage for 3 weeks.

The scenario is as follows :

- We reassemble the bikes, mount the luggage and Linda cycles to the address of the Warmshowers host.

- 15 minutes later, Dirk sends the carton bike boxes by taxi to the warmshower host where Linda is waiting.

- Dirk gets on the bike and tries to also be there as fast as possible

For going back in 3 weeks time, we do the same in reverse.​​

When Linda left the airport, she was back in 30 seconds as there was an uncontrollable wobble of the front wheel. Checking the bike, all looked OK and when we tried the other bike, the same heavy wobble was also there.

Turns out that we had been attaching too much weight and volume on our Lauf suspension fork, causing this uncontrollable wobble.

After repacking and shifting volume and weight to the back of the bikes, we were able to improve the situation.

Really something we should have been testing out before.

The next day, after some last shopping and of course some mandatory "Pastéis de Nata", we're heading in the early afternoon to Belem where we will take the ferry across the Rio Tejo to Porto Brandão.

It's about 65 km to Setubal which is probably too far to do in the afternoon and we decide to make an early stop in Fonte de Tella where we stay in a cute beach hostel.

Most of the track is in loose sand and that means a lot of bike pushing.

Arriving at the Youth Hostel in Setubal, we're asking if we can park the bikes inside. Seems to be no problem that they are so dirty, they must be used to this.

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Setubal to Santiago do Cacém

After breakfast and a short visit of the old town, we take the ferry across the mouth of the rio Sado where we arrive in the Alentejo region. Alentejo means "beyond the Tagus river (Rio Tejo)".

When the sky suddenly turns dark and the rain starts pouring down, we quickly take the first path to the right direction Camping Praia de Gala where we hope to find a cabin for the night.

 

From the campsite, you have direct access to the beach where we were at this time of the year, completely on our own.

Around lunchtime, we arrive in the little village Melides where we find the perfect picnic spot on a small square. It's a statue with marble books as stools. We do not really find a specific explanation on it but it's certainly very convenient.

Being on the road now for 4 days, we're really happy that we have made this transition to offroad cycling. We're so much closer to nature and it feels like these bikes with less luggage and weight allow us to explore tracks we would never have been riding on before.

By the end of the day, we've reached the starting point for the Rota Vicentina, Santiago do Cacém.

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Santiago do Cacém to Aljezur

Over the years, we have learned that we should not book a hotel, hostel or campspace until we are actually there. A simple flat tire or bicycle trouble, road works, unavailable ferry services, illnesses or just unexpected encounters with other cyclists can all delay your expected arrival time on any day.

Over the last 10 years, we have never experienced that we did not find a place to sleep or pitch our tent.

Also, when searching for hotels or rooms on the internet, information about a safe space for your overnight storage of the bicycles is most of the time not available.

Best solution is to check out the place yourselves before making a booking.

Sometimes, last minute direct bookings also come at a better price.

It's about 150 km from Santiago do Cacém to Aljezur where we are planning to take our first day of rest. The plan is to do it in 3 days as we are still getting used to the offroad tracks. After about 20 km's we stop for a snack at the gate of a small compound which is build around a typical Portuguese windmill. Just when we are ready to leave, a car arrives, the gate opens and a lady steps out. When we are asking what's inside, the Moinhos do Paneiro seems to be a guesthouse and we are allowed to take a look inside.

Yes, they also serve dinner and breakfast, we would be the only guest and as we would be the only guest, we're also getting a very good price. Too good to let go.

While the route is most of the time perfect gravel, there are also a fair amount of steep hills which rerquires us to get of the bike and push. So happy we have drastically reduced weight and volume of the stuff we are carrying on the bikes.

The last stop before Aljezur, we stayed at a place where a resident dog really seemed to like us. When we left in the morning, the dog just came along and after about 7 to 8 km's, we really started worrying if the dog would find it's way back home. When we called the owners, they came to pick up the dog by car and .... this was not the first time they had to come to the rescue.

Unlike some of the busier towns in the Algarve, Aljezur retains a more laid-back and traditional atmosphere. It's also a hub for surfers with many well known beaches in the neighbourhood. After 7 days of cycling, this was also the perfect place for doing some laundry and some stretching the legs in the old town and up the hill to the Moorish Castle of Aljezur with panoramic views of the countryside and surrounding hills.

Tip for lunch, dinner of just some delicious pastries : Moagem, the first vegetarian restaurant we found in 7 days.

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Aljezur to Sagres

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Title

We flew in our bicycles via Lisbon airport. Our bicycles were packed in carton bicycle boxes which we left with a Warmshowers host during the time of our trip. It's only 1 return taxi ride with the boxes from and to the airport.

In Lisbon, we went to a fado evening at Fabrica Braco de Prata, some 7 km's outside the city center. A place where you only find locals and the real fado. Traditional and vegetarian food and drinks at local prices. Check their website for programs.

Check out the youth hostels. They have comfortable rooms for 2 at budget prices.

Remember, when you go out eating, you pay extra for the bread, olives and pastes which they will put on the table. But it is really worth is and very cheap. Just don't be surprised if you see it as an add-on on the bill.

Best to make prior reservation for taking along your bikes on the train. Very convenient and ideal way to make your way back from Faro to Lisbon.

Worth staying a little bit longer: Lisbon & Faro

(Photographic impressions and tips via Menu)

Tips

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