2023 Victoria - Australia (part 1)
First intercontinal trip for the 2 of us since we've been to Japan in 2015. The last 8 years, we mostly have been travelling in Europe, avoiding as much as possible to take flights. It's also 8 years ago that we were doing a big trip without taking our bicycles. Australia is far to big to make it a cycle holiday unless you are going to stay for a long time or just want to see a tiny bit of the country.
It's a very long flight, so we decided to make a stop over in Singapore, both in the way up and the way down. I (Dirk) left a few weeks before Linda, allowing me to fit in a 10 day Vipassana meditation in Kuantan (Malaysia) and to catch up with friends and ex-colleagues in Malaysia and Singapore.
(A) Part 1 of our trip started in Melbourne, where we rented a car to get us to Anglesea for our first surf lessons and to drive along the Great Ocean Road, a stunning coastal drive known for its breathtaking scenery, including the iconic Twelve Apostles rock formations.
(B) Part 2, We took the night train from Melbourne to Sydney where we rented a Campervan for the next 3 weeks. Starting in the Blue Mountains, we followed the coast direction north, passing Byron bay, the Gold coast, Brisbane and up to Noosa on the Sunshine Coast.
(C) Part 3, we returned the Campervan in Brisbane and took a train to Gladstone to visit Heron island on the Great Barrier Reef.
Arriving in Australia, we opted to buy a local SIM card from a local operator as we wanted to have a local contact number when making reservations. The first hotel reception recommended Optus, which turned out to be a less good choice due to several system outages. In most locations, we noticed that Telstra had much better coverage and was also often providing free local internet access.
Melbourne Central Business District
Melbourne is the capital of the state Victoria and is know for its vibrant arts scene, multicultural population and lively atmosphere. Population wise, it's the second-largest city of Australia, just after Sydney.
It has a good public transport system, whereby trams within the city center are for free.
There is a shuttle bus between the airport and the city center but if you are with 2, it's more or less the same price and easier to get an Uber taxi.
Flinders station is an iconic landmark, located on the southern bank of the Yarra river and known for its distinctive facade, clock tower and Victorian Architecture.
It's also a very popular meeting spot for locals who traditionally will meet up "under the clocks". Just like in the good old days, the departing times of the standard trainlines are still announced on analog clocks.
The area around Flinders station is a good place to start your Melbourne sightseeing trip.
Look around to find a few City Tourism volunteers in their red jacket and straw hat. They will provide you with all up to date info about what to do during your stay.
Just across Flinders station is Federation square with the NGV (National Gallery of Victoria), Australia's oldest and most visited art museum.
Entry to the NGV is free and you can check running exhibitions on their website.
Printed guides of different walks in Melbourne and surroundings are available at the visitor centre at Melbourne Town Hall. We did the Street Art Walk and most parts of the Iconic laneways and Arcades walk.
Street Art Walk
If you're late for lunch, it sometimes gets difficult in Melbourne to find a place which serves lunch all day.
Exception is ChinChin in Flinders Lane 125, on the Street Art tour just after AC/DC lane.
If you want to go for dinner, best to make reservations as it's a popular spot.
When you see the giant sleeping female at the outside wall of Brunetti's at Flinders street, you can pop in for "coffee and a slice" in this legendary italian cafe with the most amazing choice of pastries.
Iconic laneways and arcades
No shortage of coffee houses, cafe's, bars or restaurants. Just be aware that most coffee places already close late afternoon and restaurants tend to close in the early evening. Taking orders after 9pm will already be an exception.
When you are in Hardware lane, just go a little futher to Guildford lane ( which is on the street art tour) and have a coffee, breakfast or lunch at Krimper. Nice atmosphere, fantastic service and food.
Most of Australian cities have their own botanic gardens but the one in Melbourne is certainly worth a visit. It's located just south of the Yarra River, adjacent to the central business district. The main entrance is just a 15 minute walk from Flinders Street Station.
Shopping at Brunswick area
If you like shopping in vintage boutiques or unique independant shops, the Brunswich area is the place to be.
There's also an abundance of diverse cuisines, from European or Middle eastern to Vietnamese.
For burgers, beers and a unique place, go for lunch or dinner to Easey's at Easey street 48. You can walk up the stairs and have your meal in one of the converted train wagons on top of the building.
Free tram zone in Melbourne CBD
Travel on all trams within the Melbourne CBD and Docklands is free. On the historic city circle tram with touristic info via the speakers, you can make a full circle around the CBD and get off as many times as you want. The tram goes every half hour and runs both clockwise and anticlockwise.
Recommended stops to get of the tram and stroll around: The Docklands and the State library of Victoria at stop 8 on La Trobe street. Entrance of the library is free and certainly worth a visit.
Yarra River
You can enjoy a leisurely stroll or bike ride along the Yarra River trail.
At the Southbank Promenade, you find lots of restaurants, cafes and bars with waterfront views.
Leaving Melbourne - The Heavenly Queen temple
400.000 People or a little more than 8% of the population of Melbourne has Chinese ancestry. Just outside of Melbourne CBD, on the way to the Great Ocean road, is the Heavanly Queen temple. Devotees around the world believe that "Mazu", the heavanly queen, will protect all those who pray to her before setting out to sea.
Anglesea
We chose Anglesea as our base location for visiting the Great Ocean Road area. Wanting to learn surfing already for a few years, Australia seemed the perfect location to start with it and the Anglesea beach is known as a good beach for beginners.
It was for sure fun, but not much to show yet. Linda was able to stay up already at least 10 seconds. I (Dirk) could get up a few times but need to work hard on flexibility if I ever want to succeed.
Anglesea is on the 44km surf coast walk, from Point Impossible in Torquay, up to Fairhaven.
The entire walk takes 2 to 3 days and is split up in 12 tracks of which we walked the Anglesea-Point Addis track (7km up, 7km down)
The Great Ocean Road
Considered one of Australia's top tourist attractions is the 243 km long road along the ocean between Torquay and Allansford. The road was build by WW1 veterans between 1919 and 1932.
We started from Anglesea and drove upto the Grotto formation, a few km after Port Campbell.
Most popular sights are the 12 apostles (only 7 of them left), Loch Ard Gorge, The Arch, London Bridge and The Grotto. While this is of course all very impressive, it also felt a little strange for us to be part of mass tourism again.
The following day, we just did the little part of the Great Ocean road towards Torquay. Torquay is famous for it's surf beaches and is also the birthplace of well known surf brands like Rip Curl and Quicksilver.
We just had to go and have a look at Bells beach where the Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach is the longest running event in competitive surfing. (Not a place where we want to go in the water)
Mornington Peninsula
We drove back to Melbourne via the Mornington Peninsula, taking the ferry between Queenscliff and Sorento.
From Sorrento, it's only a few km to Point Nepean National park, the most westerly point of the Mornington Peninsula.
At the tip of the park is Fort Nepean, a historic military fort located at the entrance of Port Phillip Bay near Melbourne. It played a significant role in Australia's defense strategy from 1880 up to World War 2. It was the site where the first shot of the Britisch empire was fired in WW1, signaling Australia's involvement in the war.
The most well-known Quarantine station of Australia is at Point Nepean. The station played a crucial role in preventing the spread of diseases such as smallpox and the spanish flu. It was used until 1979 when it was converted as an historic site and tourist attraction.
Driving back to Melbourne, we wanted to stop at Brighton Beach to see the colourful bathing boxes, until we found out that they are lining the entire coastline.
Melbourne to Sydney
A relaxing way to travel from Melbourne to Sydney is by taking the overnight sleeper train.
You leave at 8pm and arrive after a good nights sleep at 7 am in Sydney.
To continue with our trip in Australia, go to 2023 - New South Wales