2025 Pieterpad Divide
The Pieterpad (Peterpath) is the most famous long distance hiking trail in the Netherlands. It goes from North to South, from Pieterburen in the province of Groningen up to the Sint Pietersberg (Saint Peter mountain) in Limburg near Maastricht. The original trail was invented by 2 Dutch ladies between 1978 and 1983. They were inspired by a hike in the Black Forest in Germany and wanted to create something like it in the Netherlands.
In 1998, the Pieterpad version for cyclists was made and just last year (2024), a Gravel version was created by Cobbles cycling and the Gravelracer.
We bought the GPX track for 9 Euro, which is available from the websites of both Cobbles and the Gravelracer.
The gravel track follows for a large part the original bicycle track and diverts offroad whenever the creators found a nice offroad alternative.
They suggest that you can do this in 5 days and Komoot gives it a rating as "Expert Gravel ride".
We did it in 8 days, mainly because we wanted to spend an afternoon both in Groningen and Maastricht and we had heavy snow during the first 2 days. Also, when doing it in winter, cycling days are shorter.
We did not think the track was difficult at all and suppose the "Expert' rating is because it's suggested as a 5 day ride. When doing it in summer, 6 to 7 days will result in a leisurely adventure.
In the above map, the red track is the Gravel Pieterpad divide, the blue track parts aside the red track is where the standard bicycle path is different from the gravel version.
Video on DILISTUFF YouTube channel
To the start point in Pieterburen
When we checked all alternatives to get to Pieterburen, the easiest solution for us was to go by train from Antwerp to Winsum, followed by a short cycle ride of 15 km to Pieterburen. We went on a sunday to avoid peakperiods during which you cannot take your bike on the trains in the Netherlands.
We left at 7.42 in the morning and arrived in Winsum 5 hours later. We needed to change trains 3 times but this was very easy. Cost for the 2 of us, including the bicycles : 75 Euro (Complete journey booked via the SNCB international app)
Arriving in Winsum, we immediately are in holiday mood as it is such a charming village. A few years ago, the Royal Dutch Touring club proclaimed Winsum the most beautiful village of the Netherlands.
After a short stop in the J&A Café for a hot cacoa, we continued to Pieterburen by bicycle. We will be passing Winsum again tomorrow and we now use the bike nodes system "Fietsknoop" to find a different route.
Nodes also exists for hikers (Wandelknooppunt). Different applications in Belgium and the Netherlands exist, all using the same nodes.
Arriving in Pieterburen, there was still enough time for a nice walk to the dikes of the Wadden Sea. The Wadden sea is part of the North sea and is a land area which is above water with low tide.
The walk to the Wadden sea is a 10 km walk, often done as a prologue to the Pieterpad hike.
As it was getting dark fast and we had already done part of it when arriving by bicycle, we shortened our walk to 7 km, just to the dikes and back.
We stayed at the Waddengenot hotel. As it was low season, they were offering a very good deal at 47 Euro per night, inclusive of a breakfast buffet.
Being the only place for dinner in the neighbourhood, we also tried our luck in the restaurant. Also very good.
Pieterburen - Groningen
On our bicycle trips, we never book overnight stays in advance but today is an exception. The original Pieterpad track goes around Groningen. We have not visited this city before and we decided that we would spend the afternoon in Groningen. 35 Km on day one also seems a good way to warm up the muscles.
We're pretty fast back in Winsum where we arrived yesterday by train.
Oh yes, being in the Netherlands, we will see a lot more windmills during this trip.
In the village, we're passing a B&B "Krakende Wagens" (Creaking Cars) where we see from the road site a 3-wheel vehicle which seems converted to a campervan.
When the owner shows up, he immediately gives us a tour around his garden with different types of sleeping places.
No idea how much it costs for a night but it surely looks interesting.
Back in the center of Winsum, we went back to the J&A Café as we had to say "Thank you".
Yesterday, when we were about 6 km on the road, Linda suddenly realised that she did not have her backpack anymore.
Dirk : So what's in it ?
Linda : my iPad, wallet, money, cards, passport, keys.
When we phoned J&A, they found the backpack and brought it to us by car so that we did not have to cycle back.
Good reason to go back for a Thank You very much.
Just around the corner of J&A , we're passing a little street we've seen in a leaflet about Winsum. Can't resist also taking a photo of it.
A little further, we're passing this steering cabin which serves as a rest station for hikers and cyclists on the Pieter Pad.
Inside you'll find a water heater, coffee, tea, milk, soft drinks, a mix of cookies, etc..
A pricelist tells you what to put in the honesty box.
Life can be simple.
We were hiding in the cabin for the wind while drinking our own hot tea. When cycling in wintertime, we always use a thermos flask instead of a standard water bottle.
The tea flavour for this journey is Curcuma Chai.
Too early for check in, we went for lunch at "Huis de Beurs" (House of the Exchange) opposite the building of the old grain exchange. We always try to keep our bicycles in sight and with a window seat, this was just perfect.
Time for Dirk's favourite when in the Netherlands, bread with croquettes. For Linda healthy toast. To drink, soon the standard for this trip, Fresh Ginger tea.
The history of "Huis de beurs" goes back a long time. It used to be a hotel for merchants, a concert hall, auction house, a cinema, stripteasetent, bowling alley, theatre and detention house for collaborators.
Whenever we said that we would be visiting Groningen, they all told us to visit the Forum building which houses the Groningen Library and has a roof top terrace with a full view over the city.
The VVV Groningen (tourist office) is located in the Forum groundfloor souvenir shop and that's where we bought a map for a 1 day walking tour. For 1.50 Euro, you can't go wrong.
Tip for dinner : Zeste, just next to the center of the old city
For this trip, we will try to book most of our overnights with a "Vrienden op de Fiets" host. (Friends on the bicycle)
Joining the organisation is simple, you pay 10 Euro per calenderyear (ending 31dec).
Via the website, you can look up hosts and you can call them to check availability. The cost for a stay is 25 euro's per person, including breakfast.
The website gives some details about the hosting address and an indication if last minute reservations are OK.
Our host in Groningen had a fantastic 70's interior.
Groningen - Schoonoord
The weather forecast for last night was light rain. Wrong, but what a nice surprise.
We joined the track just after Groningen at "Hoornsemeer" and immediately realised that it would be difficult today to pick up the pace. With so many picture perfect sights, we kept on stopping to take a photo or simply enjoy the experience.
Stopping for lunch in Zuid-Laren at 12.15am, we had cycled 24 km only.
At Olle Stee, they have interesting lunch dishes with Naan bread and it's obvious that they also employ a real barista.
This morning, it was our goal to catch up a little after our early stop in Groningen. Despite the slow start, we were still able to do around 75 km up to another "Vrienden op de Fiets" location In Schoonoord. The good part of being able to call your host is that you can immediately check if there are any restaurants or take-out places in walking distance.
Schoonoord - Hardenberg
Today, snowfall is a lot more dense than yesterday. The weather forecast talks about 20 cm of snow but we can also see that the wind blows the snow clouds north. Prediction indicates we will have a clear sky as from 11am.
We enjoy breakfast and decide to relax and wait a little. By 11am, we're ready to go.
Our host, Charles, used to have his own travel agency and also knows a lot about the history of this region. He tells uss about the many dolmens in the area and there is one we should be passing just a few km south.
Following his recommendations, we're taking the big road and halfway, we're passed by a bicycle track snowplough. This for sure makes it a lot easier.
Arriving at the dolmen site, there was a spontaneous snowball fight with one of us throwing a little bit more precise than the other.
Being back on the Pieterpad track, we tried to continue via the forest tracks but after a few km, we decided to go back to the paved bicycle tracks. Due to rainfall the last couple of weeks, there were a lot of mud pools, now all covered by a thick layer of snow. No way to avoid riding in it and getting stuck in these mud pools.
It was beautiful but to tricky if you want to avoid soaked shoes and wet feet in this cold temperature.
We have not really figured out what criteria have been used in the track for going around or through a village.
Arriving in the small village Sleen around lunch time, we decided to cycle via the center.
Good for us. We discovered a small eating place,"'t Veurhuus".
Freshly made soup and apple pie, mmm...
And slowly, all the snow disappeared. Although we only left at 11am, still managed to cycle 55 km.
Hardenberg - Lochem
What a difference with the previous 2 days. No snow, weather forecast still gives temperatures around 0 degrees Cellcius but no rain or snow, just some clouds and even a lot of sunny periods. How lucky we can be.
Probably our most luxurious address of Vrienden op de Fiets was certainly in Hardenberg. A converted gardenhouse with separate bedroom, kitchen, livingroom, groundfloor heating, etc... A breakfast basket and filled fridge with all you possibly desire for breakfast.
Our host, Erna, told us many people recommended to make her place a B&B but she likes to keep it a low-key activity.
Just amazing.
No photo with our hosts as they already left to work by the time we were ready to go.
Lifting the bike over a fallen tree is seldomly an issue. We can always unload if it's too challenging.
A more difficult one is road blocks, not because you cannot find a way around the fence but because you have no idea how far it's going to be before you find out what is really going on.
If we can see a nice detour on our map, we just deviate from the route. If not, we try our luck and 95% of the time, it's just OK.
In this case, absolutely no idea why there was this road block.
Admiring these cute birdhouses, the owner of the property just drove in to his driveway. When he threw a party for his birthday, all his friends had been buying a different type of birdhouse as a present.
The first 3 days, we did not get the feeling of being on gravel roads. Suppose that was largely due to the snow. As from today, it seems different and we're cycling from one nature reserve in to another.
In Nijverdal, we're bumping in to this very inviting rest point. We can only suppose that this will be a busy meeting point for hikers and the neighbourhood once the temperatures go up.
Today, it's the first day that we do not find a place to sleep where we want to stop. Via booking.com, we book a hotel in a neighbouring town, Lochem, just 6 km aside the route.
85 km today, we're getting in shape.
Lochem - Millingen aan de Rijn
We had breakfast in a bakery in Lochem as we do not want to go for the extentive (and expensive) breakfast in the hotel.
Following the canal for about 6 km brings us back to the route.
Just a reminder : It's Valentines day today
Maybe a coincidence, we seem to be passing a lot more romantic castles today.
We're approaching the German border and when reaching Elten (Germany), we've done 72 km and decide that we first go to a German bakery for some "Kuchen"(cakes) and will afterwards continue for 10 km to Millingen aan de Rijn.
As it's Valentines day, we first check availability in Millingen and still find a room. Everything booked, Everyone happy.
Oops .... Linda asks again if we are sure the ferry is still sailing after 5PM. Forgot to check.
It's 4.55PM, we're still having 5km to cycle to the ferry and when we call the ferry services, we're learning that in winter, last trip is at 5 PM.
The only solution is a detour of about 30 km via the bridge in Emmerich am Rhein.
Linda: let's get going before it get's dark.
Dirk: Grrrrrr, blablabla. blablabla, .!!!
Arriving at 7.15 PM, we're just in time for a quick shower and ordering our Valentines dinner 15 minutes before the kitchen takes the last orders. Pffff, close call but happy we made it.
Millingen aan de Rijn - Swolgen
From Millingen, it's a little more than 200 km to the Sint Pietersberg. If we want to have some spare time in Maastricht, that's too much for 2 days and perfect for 3 days of cycling.
Todays target : 72 km to Swolgen.
We wil decide around lunch time where to stop for the day, there are a few last minute "Vrienden op de Fiets" addresses in Swolgen .
In the morning, we always check if we can find food for a picnic on the way. Now, in winter, we prefer to have some lunch somewhere inside. Just before Gennep, we're seeing this little teahouse and yes, they have some toasties and for dessert apple pie.
As expected, just sitting down for a photo is far too simple. Our youngest one needs a little more challenge.
Around 5 pm, we're just getting a little hungry when we see a sign "Taste our Soup"at a local inn. At the Thijssen Herberg
in Vierlingsbeek it's still very calm but they are preparing for the Carnaval. While we're there, we're checking available places at "Vrienden op de Fiets" in Swolgen.
It's still 20 km to Swolgen, mainly via offroad tracks. Toos of "Vrienden op de Fiets" asked us to arrive after 5.30pm as she was on a birthday celebration. We have all the time and just enjoy the adventure.
In Swolgen, preparations for carnaval are in full swing and there is only 1 place where we can get some food. With a private party going on in the restaurant, the only option left is "take out" french fries.
They're perfect and we can still eat them there. Let's be honest, it looks very cosy for a take out place.
Recommended : Wilhelmina in Swolgen
Swolgen - Sittard
Toos is 90. She's hosting for many years already and wants to keep busy. Once you stop moving, you're getting old she says. Yesterday evening, she came up the stairs with a tray with cups of soup and 2 pieces of apple pie to welcome us.
She used to travel a lot in her younger days when travelling was not that obvious yet, by boat to Bali, by train to China, etc.. Very, very interesting lady. Thanks Toos.
The path is wet, certain spots where the sun does not come, puddles on the road still have a thin layer of ice, but... we have a blue sky and the sun is coming out.
Lunch at Cafe De Grens in Reuver and we've already cycled 37 km. On a sunny day like this, we should maybe try to do another 55 to Sittard, leaving just 35 km for the last day. Time enough to stroll around in Maastricht.
Everything goes easy today, it seems that our physical condition after 1 week of cycling is again where it was after last years 2900 km trip from Lisbon back home. That's good news because our next trip in April to Scotland will again be a more challenging one.
Checking booking.com when we arrive in Sittard, we're kind of surprised that the Merici, a 4 star hotel sells rooms at 72 Euro. We're nearly at the finish so why not pamper ourselves for 1 night.
Sittard - Maastricht
Last day, we're taking a leisurely breakfast in the hotel and get on our bike by 11 am only.
We know that the last km's will be up a hill but so far, it all seems to stay rather flat.
Here's Linda's weak spot.
Whenever we're passing a flock of sheep, the camera comes out.
Last stop before reaching the finish is in Valkenburg. When cycling, we never feel guilty when taking some extra calories in the form of pastries. At "Burgemeester Quicx", they have a superb homemade pear pastry, so delicious.
The end of the Pieterpad is at the top of the Sint-Pietersberg (Mountain Saint Peter). The hill has an altitude of around 100 meters and lies mainly in the Netherlands and a little part in Belgium. From the top, you also have a nice view over the quarry.
The end
To get back home, we just have to cycle 25 km to where Linda's daughter lives. From there, we're getting our car and will drive home. In the morning, we're first visiting Cyril of cycle shop "Off The Map" who was following our trip on Instagram and invited us over for a cup of coffee.
We left our loaded bikes in his shop while going for a quick bite next door in "De Brandweerkantine"
Feel free to send us a mail if you also want to cycle the Pieterpad Divide and need more info.
